Hints for Photographing Metal


These hints are designed to help increase the likelihood of artwork being accepted and to encourage the use of fabulous looking photographs wherever anyone promotes their art. The tips range from beginner to advanced, but please take time to read through them. Thanks!

  • Professional photographs are great but only if the photographer is used to shooting jewelry and metalsmithing.
  • Your artwork should fill the frame, but do not crop the images too closely. For the Eastern Repoussé DVD, all images will be fitted into the appropriate resolution for television and may require more background than you would ordinarily leave for print or web use.
    Use a macro lens or macro setting on your camera.
  • Work should be shot on a smooth, solid, contrasting background. Do not use textured backgrounds (fabric, textured paper, plant material, etc.) unless you are very experienced at shooting on them and only if they truly add to the piece and are not distracting. (Black or other dark foam core works well. Medium gray is the standard for shooting jewelry, but it is also really boring on a big screen and in print. Always find out what a publication prefers. Colored backgrounds are frowned upon in jurying jewelry and metalwork, but some publishers prefer them.
  • A tripod or some other way to keep the camera steady can make a big difference in the clarity of the shot.
    Use the timer setting on the camera (or a remote shutter release if you have one) to prevent accidentally jiggling the camera when you push the button to shoot.
    Please make sure your work is lit appropriately. Do not use flash because it will create white "hot spots" on the metal. Lighting should be diffused to keep hot spots from happening. A great (and cheap) way to diffuse light is to hold sheets of vellum type paper between the light source and the artwork. (This is how I shoot my own work.)
  • You may have better luck using manual settings (but keep auto-focus on) to adjust the ISO and/or to set the lighting setting to indoor lighting, which is usually represented by a light bulb icon on most cameras.
  • Consider the overall composition of the image. In publications, the images may be the only contact an audience has with your artwork, so the images must convey the feel of the piece not simply record it. A photograph should show off your work, but it should also be interesting. Sometimes it's ok to let the ends of a chains on a necklace trail off out of the shot if you are trying to get in close to feature a pendant.
  • Shooting from different angles may also be appropriate as long as the viewer can still "read" the piece and understand what it is.
    Please color correct the image if needed and ensure there are no scratches or dust on the piece or the background, however, don't go crazy with editing to the point that the images look "Photoshopped". Don't use the auto color correct option on your software as it is often too high contrast. If you are unsure how to edit or don't have the software, get help from someone who does.
  • Always look at your photos enlarged on your monitor before submitting them anywhere! Your artwork may be stunning, but that one fine dog hair on the background could look a little scary on someone's big screen TV. ;-)
  • Please note that what makes an image good for publication is not always the same as what makes it good for show/exhibition jurying.

For more information on photographing artwork, please visit Harriete Estel Berman's Guide to Professional Quality Images

Please note that some suggestions about backgrounds and cropping differ from the requirements specifically for Victoria's Eastern Repousse call for images.

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