This
product is Victoria’s recipe for Russian filigree solder
plus flux and has the same properties as the filed ingot solder
demonstrated on the DVD Metal
Techniques of Bronze Age Masters: Russian Filigree.
It
works on sterling/fine silver and 18K/fine silver Russian
filigree. (It has not been tested on Argentium silver.) Because
it is a finer mesh, much less is needed to accomplish the
same job. Please follow the instructions below in order not
to use too much or flood your piece.
- Turn
on your ventilation system.
- Carefully
open the jar. (Do not shake.)
- Gently
stir the contents in case the metal has settled.
- Scoop
a small amount of the powdered solder into the jar lid.
- Place
filigree face down on compressed charcoal block.
- Lightly
brush water onto the filigree area to be soldered.
- Dip
the tip of the damp brush into the jar lid to pick up
a tiny clump.
- Gently
paint it onto the filigree at each point to be connected.
- Solder.
Always use adequate ventilation!
- Pickle.
- Return
unused powdered solder in the jar lid to the container.
Please note:
- Cheap
synthetic brushes work best.
- Water
turns the powdered solder a slightly darker color, which
is normal. If the solder clumps or cakes, use the end
of the brush handle to stir it.
- If
for any reason you need to re-flow a section of filigree
where the solder has already flowed and the piece has
been pickled, then you will need to flux that area with
paste flux to help the solder re-flow.
Warning: This product contains silver, bronze, copper, zinc,
and borax. Harmful if swallowed or inhaled. Let contents settle
before opening to prevent metal dust becoming airborne. May
cause skin irritation. MSDS available upon request.
Troubleshooting
Problem:
The solder sticks to the brush or is difficult to make adhere
to the filigree when applying.
Solutions:
- Make
sure you're using a cheap synthetic brush such as a flux
brush. Artists' brushes such as sable or other fine pointed
brushes intended for painting may cause the solder to
stick to the fibers instead of sticking to the filigree.
- Also,
make sure the filigree is wet when applying the solder.
The water should pull the solder onto the piece and into
the crevices by capillary action.
Problem:
The solder does not flow when heated.
Solutions:
- Make
sure that the piece is evenly heated and for long enough
to allow the solder to flow fully. It will mirror when
it flows just like wire or sheet solder.
- Be
sure to pickle in between rounds of soldering. The flux
in the Russian Filigree Powdered Solder will keep the
metals clean enough for one round of soldering, but there
may not be enough left to solder again without removing
the oxidation or adding more solder.
Problem:
The filler wire won't solder to the frame.
Solutions:
- Try
filtered, distilled, or spring water! Water in certain
areas may have high calcium, iron, or other contents
that can create soldering problems.
- Make
sure you're heating the frame enough for the solder
to flow onto it and not just into the filler wires.
If
you still have questions, or if you have tips you'd like to
share, please email Victoria
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For
your convenience, VIctoria Lansford's Powdered Russian Filigree
Solder is now available. Save time and expense, buying already
powdered solder, pre-mixed with flux, and made especially
for Russian filigree. (1 jar lasts for months.)
.75 troy oz
$29.95
Tips
for Russian Filigree
Frame
Tips:
-
Make
sure your frame sits flat on the steel block
-
Remove
any blobs of solder that may have pooled in the corners
of your frame
-
Make
sure your frame wires are straight and not twisted or
tilted. This is extremely important when working with
square frame wire.
Filling
Tips:
-
If
your filler wires won't stay in, and you're certain the
frame is straight, flat, and free of solder blobs, the
filler wire may not be straight from the loop to the end
of the curve. If needed, reshape it with tweezers.
-
Make
sure that your filler wire is sufficiently flattened.
If it is too thick (not rolled enough), it may keep popping
out when you place it in the frame. Roll it through the
rolling mill again to make it slightly thinner. There
is no need to anneal it again before or after.
Soldering
Tips:
-
Most
types of torches will work on small pieces, but an air/acetylene
works best on larger pieces (greater than 2" x 2").
My personal favorite is the Goss brand torch kit.
-
Just
as with any silver soldering, heat your piece evenly all
over before concentrating on the area to be soldered.
Because silver is a good conductor of heat, it's possible
to get one area red hot (or even to melt it) without getting
the solder to flow. All over, even heat is the key.
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